Preservation Sound Kayaking Expedition 2005
The Preservation Sound Kayaking Expedition 29/1/05-13/2/05
Its 3.30 AM in the morning and Ian appears at the door of the wheelhouse of the Jewel. Have we got everyone?
I glance shoreward. Simon and Richard are not here yet but cannot be far¹
I pray they turn up soon. We were initially due to depart at 4.00 AM but then Ian changed it to 3.00 AM and I thought I had told everyone. Not long afterwards car light appear of and I walk over to help Simon and Richard with their gear. Once aboard we cast off and head out to sea.
Half the party slept on board the previous night and the rest of us at the Anderson¹s house in Riverton, which was our departure port. We had loaded up the Jewel, Ian¹s 60¹ fishing boat the previous evening and then gone for a meal at a pub in Riverton.
It was a dark night as we cruised westwards. Soon the lights of Riverton were astern and then I could pick up the lights of Colac Bay. There was usual SW swell of maybe two metres. I preferred to stand on the rear deck and focus on the dark horizon to settle my stomach. When we were crossing Te Waewae Bay false dawn appeared and then we could see mollymauks gliding in our wake. It seemed ages before we were closer to land cruising several miles south of the south coast. Eventually Green Isles appeared and then excitement as the Puysegur Lighthouse came into view. The sea was surprising flat as we headed into the Otago Retreat.
We had originally intended to debark at Moonlight Beach on Coal Island but as the beach looked so small I asked Ian to drop us off at Te Oneroa. This was done very efficiently as the crew pushed the unloaded kayaks out the stern door and gear and people were transferred into the inflatable and ferried ashore. Ian then went off to Weka Island to put our storage barrels on the barge there. The day was warm and sunny and we scouted out suitable spots and started putting up our tents. Once this was done we set off in our kayaks down the Otago Retreat and out to sea to get some good pics of Puysegur lighthouse. After this we put in at the oil store and some went for a walk while others headed back to Te Oneroa. Here I met Ken Bradley of DOC to discuss our project on Coal Island. Later when we all assembled we had a talk about our plans for the next few days. It was decided to leave early next day for Gulches Head and kayak around to Chalky Sound.
We were up early and broke camp but this took ages, as people were quite slow in packing up their gear. We eventually sorted ourselves into 2 pods and set off for the channel between Coal Island and Steep-To Island. Once past his we faced the Tasman Sea, which looked calm with a minimal swell. We set course for Gulches Head, which gradually came closer. Off to the left was the infamous Broke-adrift Passage but today it was benign with just the occasional swell breaking. Once around the actual head we ran into a northerly wind and the sea was choppy. Rounding Red Head into the Eastern Passage of Chalky Inlet the wind started to build. Off to port were the white cliffs of Chalky Island. Both pods regrouped in the next bay before continuing along the coast. Ahead was a headland and once we turned this we were into a very strong northerly wind and big waves. Our strongest paddlers were out in front and as I could not attract their attention Belinda and I swung around and returned to pod 2 to stop them continuing. They were in a sheltered bay and we landed on a gravel beach. Off shore was a chartered boat the Takapu and they asked us on the VHF if we would like a ride over to Southport or Northport. They also relayed messages to our forward party, as I could not raise them on my VHF. It was a relief to hear they had made it to Garden Islands.
I was reluctant to accept a lift from the Takapu and worried about the logistics of raising fully loaded kayaks onto their deck. However Noel and Belinda were keen so I agreed. Then we kayaked out and a group of big deer hunters slung ropes under the bow and stern of each kayak and amazingly lifted them up onto the top deck fully loaded!! We were invited down to the galley for a warm drink. As a small token of appreciation I mobilized the neck of one of the deer hunters who had put it out.
Mark, the skipper could not have been more helpful and dropped us off at a delightful spot at Fisherman's Bay at Northport. Here the bay was shallow and sandy and seemed to have a thriving population of stingrays. On shore there is a wide grassy area behind the sand dunes and we pitched camp there. We discussed going to Grono¹s Cave next day. The weather was still fine and sunny. Grono¹s cave is one of the most famous in Fiordland and faces the Tasman Sea about three kilometres north of Cape Providence. Captain John Grono was master of the brig Elizabeth who used the cave in 1823 for his sealing gang.
Next day we left early, leaving our tents up and kayaking along the north coast of Chalky Inlet to Landing Bay. Just entering the Bay we ran into a strong northerly wind and had to punch into a strong head wind to get to shore. Then we walked around the coast to Cape Providence and crossed a low saddle to the west coast. Here it¹s all gravel beaches and we walked north looking for the cave. The tide was out so this was easy. However finding the cave was not easy. There were lots of seal colonies especially at the large arch just north of Gronos. Here we backtracked and if it were not for Susan¹s tracking skills we would have missed it. Several floats hanging from trees mark the site. The cave has a narrow entrance and inside is a few old beds and a cupboard. Just to the north is a rough track that climbs up into the hills above. We then meandered off into the bush before exiting to the east of Cape Providence. We regained our kayak and headed home. Later the Southport party arrived after having trekked into Lake Hector and then gone on to Cape Providence.
Sand flies are always a problem in Fiordland but I had bought 2 large screen tents and flies for the trip as well as headnets and these were invaluable. I had also brought a portable shower _ a sort of watering can made of plastic which I tried out in the evening. I filled it up with fresh water and walked into the bush till I found a branch at the correct height to which I tied it. Then it was a strip off and rapid shower as the sandflies zoomed in on all that exposed flesh. Afterwards it felt good!!
Another fine day saw us kayaking up towards Edwardson Sound, the most beautiful sound in the area. At Little Island was the wreck of the Stella, an old lighthouse tender. Belinda, Daan, Giselle and I set off first and kayaked along slowly admiring the numerous fish close to shore. Later we popped into a secluded bay and had a brew up on a fire to be joined by Mick and Sier. The others pushed on up Edwardson Sound. The day was beautifully clear and the high peaks on either side looked great. The wind came away in the afternoon blowing up the sound and we were able to surf waves all the way up. At the top we met the others who were heading over to the beach north east of Mt Inaccessible to camp. Simon, Mick, Giselle, Belinda and I carried on up to the Cora Lynn Falls where we anchored our kayaks and walked up the track to beautiful Lake Cadman. Here we had a ritual swim in its dark waters and planned a climb onto Saddle Hill and Square Top next day. Then it was down to our kayaks and a paddle up the Lumaluma River at high tide. We were able to go as far as the waterfall in a narrow gorge. Then it was back to camp. That evening in the screen tent we discussed plans for the following days and it was decided a party would climb the mountain range to the south west of Lake Cadman and the rest of the party would explore the lake on a dingy left at the outlet of the lake.
We left early next day for the paddle across the top of Edwardson to the Cora Lynn Falls. There were 9 of us and here we tied up our kayaks and set off up the track to its highest point and then plunged into the bush and tracked south. This involved a lot of sidling around hills dropping to the lake eventually to arrive at a beach at the southern extremity. Then it was straight up moderately step bush slopes into a cloud inversion. Higher up we entered quite scrubby steep forest and a band of cliffs. Here we sidled right and made our way up a gully where we managed to fill our water bottles in a soak. By now we were well above the inversion and the sky was a radiant blue with not a cloud in sight and warm. We eventually had to battle a band of subalpine scrub to arrive out onto a tussocky ridge at just under a 1000 metres altitude. This was Saddle Hill and here we stopped for lunch. Roger had his coffee percolator and proceeded to make some coffee for us. The ridge continued on in a most delightful manner open and easy travel across lovely tops. To the south was a valley with open parkland dotted with trees. We climbed Square Top and here Simon, Mick, Roger and Robin continued on to a rocky peak further along. I sat for awhile with Sier admiring the view and was buzzed by a passing helicopter, no doubt surprised to see anyone on such an isolated mountain. Down on lake Cadman we spied the dingy making it way up the lake. As time was moving on Sier and I made our way back to Shoulder Hill to collect the rest of the team. Here I contacted the dingy party by VHF and asked them to pick us up at the southern end of the lake and save us an hours plod around it to the track. Then it was a rapid descent down through the forest by compass to the beach, which took nearly 3 hours. Waiting was the Œwaka¹ and soon we were transported back to the outlet and then it was a short trip back to our kayaks and camp across the sound. The rest arrived later that night somewhat knackered.
The plan next day was to move down Edwardson to Cunaris Sound and Cliff Cove and portage over to Long Sound. The morning was cloudy with the usual inversion but with promises of a sunny day. The sand flies hurried our departure but as usual with 15 people not all were ready to leave at the state time. I called several together on the water and said we would start and then asked Roger on shore to bring up the rear and with that we were off. The mist was right down to water level as we paddled along. Eventually we reached Divide Head and here Noel asked about going on to Small Craft Harbour Islands. Noel, Louise, Mark, Belinda and I then set off on a compass bearing for them. 15 minutes later they appeared out of the mist. Slowly this lifted and the sun broke through. We drifted along slowly and the water was so clear we could see rock cod and blue cod swimming beneath and paua on rock ledges. We put into one bay and landed and here I lit a fire for a brew. We dried off our damp clothes and I went for a swim. The islands are magical with lovely bush and only a few sand flies.
In the afternoon we decided to move on and shortly after leaving a pod of dolphins came cruising past moving up Edwardson about a kilometre away. The wind had come up as we moved around the islands and Belinda and I decided to push on to Cliff Cove to check on the portage route. We eventually arrived at a fast moving stream draining some tidal lagoons and lined and paddled our kayaks up this to meet the rest of our party on a beach at its head. Sier and Mick reported an easy route over to Long Sound. There was some talk about going to Lake Victor up the Carrick River so several of us set off for this but then it seemed like there was not enough time to do this so we returned. By now it was nearly high tide so we continued up the tidal lagoons but these should only be tackled at high tide as we were reduced to getting out and pulling our kayaks through stinking mud for several hundred metres. We then left our kayaks in the bush and loaded up with rucksacks and dry bags full of gear we started across the narrow isthmus. On the far side was a good campsite. Later that evening the rest of the team arrived.
Next day it was fine again and our main task was to transport all the kayaks across to Long Sound. Mick and Sier took off early to kayak across to the Carrick River In Cunaris Sound and tramp in to Lake Victor. Sue marked the track, straightening it out and we started carrying kayaks across. To get the double kayak across we used slings under it with three people on either side and with Katherine taking up the stern. By lunchtime all was across. Some of the team decided to kayak up to the head of Long Sound but I was content to mooch around locally.
The following day a group of us left for the head of Long Sound, which was about 11 kilometres away. The day was fine yet again and in several hours we head reached it. An impressive waterfall fell into a narrow ravine at its head. We managed to scramble out of our kayaks onto a rock ledge below steep forested slopes and leaving them tied to trees we climbed about 200¹ up onto a terrace. Here deer trails brought us up to Lake Widgeon 500 metres further on. Forested mountains with clear tops that looked a delightful hemmed in the lake. Mick had been here before on an epic solo traverse of southern Fiordland. He pointed to some sandy beaches on the far side and said how boggy the land was there! Sier was keen to scramble down to the waterfall so I accompanied him back to the lip of it. In fact there were a series of waterfalls coursing down smooth granite slabs before the final 100¹ leap into the Fjord. We made our way back to the kayaks and started back. By now the wind had come up and it was a slog into a headwind all the way. Nearer our camp it got really difficult especially on the headlands and it was a relief to reach it. During our absence Simon had climbed Treble Mountain and reported fantastic views.
The following day we packed up camp to move down Long Sound to Coal Island. It was an overcast day and we set off in several groups. Little was to be seen of the tops. We kayaked around the north side of Weka Island meeting the ŒJewel¹ en route. We knew there was an old Maori cave on Round Island so we stopped there and found it. The floor was dry with lots of old punga trunks lying in one side and a mound of shells on the other. It was not all that appealing a place to camp so we move on. Then it was on to Moonlight beach to establish our camp. This proved to be an ideal site with plenty of sites for our tents and not too many sand flies. The only drawback was lack of fresh water.
We spent the next 3 days exploring Coal Island and marking the tagged tracks. I had arranged with DOC before we arrived to disk tracks on the island in preparation for pest eradication. DOC in conjunction with the South West Endangered Species Trust is working to set up Coal Island as an endangered species sanctuary. There was a track right round the island and one through the centre and we marked about three quarters of them. This involved nailing orange discs about 6 feet up on trees within line of sight and light track clearing. Everyone helped and it was a great team effort.
On our last Friday several of our members went on a walk to the Golden Site mine where there was an old stamper in the Wilson Valley. It is a three-hour walk from Preservation Lodge at Bisbee. The same day Belinda, Noel and I had kayaked to Spit Island landing on the eastern beach as a sea was running on the western side. We beached our kayaks and went for a walk /climb up to the top of the island. This was the site of a Maori pa that was sacked in the late 18th century. There was little to see of its previous use apart from some deep pits on the flat summit among the trees and ferns. We faced a stiff breeze on leaving the beach that grew in intensity so much so that we had to really push hard to get to Coal Island. Once there we landed but Noel decided to head across to the Pressypus, a fishing barge anchored at Weka Island. There was a strong SE wind blowing so it was a tough paddle back with the wind on the beam. In the afternoon I decided to return to Coal Island by myself to tidy up our previous campsite and no sooner had I left the safety of the bay on Weka Island than I began to regret my decision. The sea was laced with whitecaps and it was a low brace all the way across as I fair flew across the sea. It was a relief to land. I dismantled Richards supplejack kayak and tossed it into the bush before launching. It was immediately apparent I was not going to get back by the same route so I kayaked up the west side of Steep-to and tried to cross to Round Island. This was impossible as the wind blew me back so I returned to the south side of Steep-to and made my was across a narrow neck of forest to the cave there. Inside it was perfectly dry and Simons and Giselle¹s sleeping bags lay on the floor. I checked the sea conditions from time to time but there was no let up in the gale. I climbed up the hill above the cave and was able to make contact with Noel on my VHF radio much to their amusement no doubt. The day wore on and I wondered why Simon and Giselle had not returned. I figured they were with the others camping at Kisbee because it was too rough to cross the sea. Eventually it was dark, very dark so I settled down in Simon¹s sleeping bag. Sometime during the night a crocodile came for me. It closed it jaws on me when I was sleeping peacefully and my screams echoed around the cave. It even woke me up! It was a relief to see the dawn but I was apprehensive for some other reason I could not fathom. I woke early and started packing up all the gear so I could ferry it back to the barge. Then I saw a launch approaching and this surprised me. I carried out a load of gear and met Katherine who informed me Giselle had disappeared the previous evening and I was needed at Preservation Lodge. With that I hurriedly packed all the gear and threw my kayak on board and set off for Kisbee.
When I arrived at Preservation Lodge I was briefed by Don, the caretaker, on Giselle¹s disappearance. She had been up at the stamper in the Wilson River with one of our team members the previous evening and had vanished. Despite an all night search by Simon, Robin and Mick no trace could be found of her. The river had been high and it was thought she was on the true right bank of the Wilson. I was keen to organise a search party and start immediately for the site but Don was insistent SAR did not want this as any sign of her might be lost by people tramping through the bush. So we kicked our heels all morning as more helicopters arrived with SAR people. It was clear SAR did not want us on the search but I managed to persuade them to let a small party of experienced mountaineers from our team join in the search. In the afternoon 6 of us walked up the track blowing whistles and listening for any reply. We did this almost to the lip of the Wilson River and then returned by chopper to Kisbee. As the place was crowded with people we all left for the Pressypus. That night I called a meeting and explained I wanted everyone to leave next morning with our pickup with the Jewel and Mick, Simon and I would remain with the SAR team.
Next day dawned clear and looked like an ideal day to search the Wilson. The chopper arrived and took us Simon, Mick and myself off to Kisbee as the Jewel approached. There Ian Martin the search controlled assigned us to a police team and we were airlifted into the Wilson. A team from DOC with chainsaws cleared a patch of bush deep in the ravine as we hovered overhead and then we were down and jumping clear. Our party of 4 then set up a line search across the hillside and did a sweep down the Wilson for about a kilometre. It was clear to me after this Giselle would not have travelled down the Wilson, as the bush was too thick and steep. We then decided to comb the riverbed down stream for another kilometre. In the afternoon several of the search teams joined together to do a sweep up the hillside up stream of the stamper. This was steep forest terrain and it was during this exercise the news came through she had been found on a beach way to the east of Gates Harbour.
With this we moved down to the landing site in the valley bottom to be choppered out to Kisbee. The relief was inexpressible and the grin on Simons face a delight. Back at Preservation Lodge Giselle looked tired and was limping badly. In the evening we flew out by chopper to Clifton flying over numerous passes in the mountains of southern Fiordland. From Clifton we got a lift to Riverton by car where we picked up Simons car to Invercargill.
Members of the expedition were
Robin Mitchell
Katherine Dixon
Susan Cade
Richard Henderson
Mick Abbott
Louis Parker
Matt Banham
Daan de la Rey
Noel Carson
Roger Deacon
Simon Marwick
Sier Vermunt
Giselle Clements
Stan and Belinda Mulvany
Memorable quotes:
Noel: Im going to the barge
Richard: Tra La La
Roger: Stop that right now or I will throw you into the sea and drown you!
Richard: That's not an option
Mick after the marine forecast predicted 50 knot winds Were all going to die to the tune of the Monty Python song
Daan when describing how he felt at Giselle's disappearance I could not do much. I was not able to do much but I worried.
Thanks guys for a great trip. You were wonderful. It was the ultimate in team building. Thanks for the work on Coal Island. It will make a difference in the grand scheme of things. Thanks to Belinda for all the help with the organization. Special thanks to Susan. I appreciated your counsel. As for the search and rescue it was a difficult time emotionally for all of us and we were blessed things did turn out well in the end. As Jesus said let us rejoice in the lamb that went astray and was found.
Acknowledgments: To Ian Bain and the crew of the Jewel. Without their help there was not way of getting to Preservation. To Mark of the Takapu, thanks for the lift and advise. To the Staff of Preservation Lodge thanks for opening your doors to a motley crew of sea kayakers and helping with the search. To the helicopter pilots thanks for all that skilful flying and seemingly precarious landings in tiny forest clearings. To all the SAR team we appreciated your efforts, thanks guys. And lastly to members of the Preservation Sound Kayaking Expedition thanks for your faith in the enterprise and for its success.
Stanley Mulvany
Invercargill
Its 3.30 AM in the morning and Ian appears at the door of the wheelhouse of the Jewel. Have we got everyone?
I glance shoreward. Simon and Richard are not here yet but cannot be far¹
I pray they turn up soon. We were initially due to depart at 4.00 AM but then Ian changed it to 3.00 AM and I thought I had told everyone. Not long afterwards car light appear of and I walk over to help Simon and Richard with their gear. Once aboard we cast off and head out to sea.
Half the party slept on board the previous night and the rest of us at the Anderson¹s house in Riverton, which was our departure port. We had loaded up the Jewel, Ian¹s 60¹ fishing boat the previous evening and then gone for a meal at a pub in Riverton.
It was a dark night as we cruised westwards. Soon the lights of Riverton were astern and then I could pick up the lights of Colac Bay. There was usual SW swell of maybe two metres. I preferred to stand on the rear deck and focus on the dark horizon to settle my stomach. When we were crossing Te Waewae Bay false dawn appeared and then we could see mollymauks gliding in our wake. It seemed ages before we were closer to land cruising several miles south of the south coast. Eventually Green Isles appeared and then excitement as the Puysegur Lighthouse came into view. The sea was surprising flat as we headed into the Otago Retreat.
We had originally intended to debark at Moonlight Beach on Coal Island but as the beach looked so small I asked Ian to drop us off at Te Oneroa. This was done very efficiently as the crew pushed the unloaded kayaks out the stern door and gear and people were transferred into the inflatable and ferried ashore. Ian then went off to Weka Island to put our storage barrels on the barge there. The day was warm and sunny and we scouted out suitable spots and started putting up our tents. Once this was done we set off in our kayaks down the Otago Retreat and out to sea to get some good pics of Puysegur lighthouse. After this we put in at the oil store and some went for a walk while others headed back to Te Oneroa. Here I met Ken Bradley of DOC to discuss our project on Coal Island. Later when we all assembled we had a talk about our plans for the next few days. It was decided to leave early next day for Gulches Head and kayak around to Chalky Sound.
We were up early and broke camp but this took ages, as people were quite slow in packing up their gear. We eventually sorted ourselves into 2 pods and set off for the channel between Coal Island and Steep-To Island. Once past his we faced the Tasman Sea, which looked calm with a minimal swell. We set course for Gulches Head, which gradually came closer. Off to the left was the infamous Broke-adrift Passage but today it was benign with just the occasional swell breaking. Once around the actual head we ran into a northerly wind and the sea was choppy. Rounding Red Head into the Eastern Passage of Chalky Inlet the wind started to build. Off to port were the white cliffs of Chalky Island. Both pods regrouped in the next bay before continuing along the coast. Ahead was a headland and once we turned this we were into a very strong northerly wind and big waves. Our strongest paddlers were out in front and as I could not attract their attention Belinda and I swung around and returned to pod 2 to stop them continuing. They were in a sheltered bay and we landed on a gravel beach. Off shore was a chartered boat the Takapu and they asked us on the VHF if we would like a ride over to Southport or Northport. They also relayed messages to our forward party, as I could not raise them on my VHF. It was a relief to hear they had made it to Garden Islands.
I was reluctant to accept a lift from the Takapu and worried about the logistics of raising fully loaded kayaks onto their deck. However Noel and Belinda were keen so I agreed. Then we kayaked out and a group of big deer hunters slung ropes under the bow and stern of each kayak and amazingly lifted them up onto the top deck fully loaded!! We were invited down to the galley for a warm drink. As a small token of appreciation I mobilized the neck of one of the deer hunters who had put it out.
Mark, the skipper could not have been more helpful and dropped us off at a delightful spot at Fisherman's Bay at Northport. Here the bay was shallow and sandy and seemed to have a thriving population of stingrays. On shore there is a wide grassy area behind the sand dunes and we pitched camp there. We discussed going to Grono¹s Cave next day. The weather was still fine and sunny. Grono¹s cave is one of the most famous in Fiordland and faces the Tasman Sea about three kilometres north of Cape Providence. Captain John Grono was master of the brig Elizabeth who used the cave in 1823 for his sealing gang.
Next day we left early, leaving our tents up and kayaking along the north coast of Chalky Inlet to Landing Bay. Just entering the Bay we ran into a strong northerly wind and had to punch into a strong head wind to get to shore. Then we walked around the coast to Cape Providence and crossed a low saddle to the west coast. Here it¹s all gravel beaches and we walked north looking for the cave. The tide was out so this was easy. However finding the cave was not easy. There were lots of seal colonies especially at the large arch just north of Gronos. Here we backtracked and if it were not for Susan¹s tracking skills we would have missed it. Several floats hanging from trees mark the site. The cave has a narrow entrance and inside is a few old beds and a cupboard. Just to the north is a rough track that climbs up into the hills above. We then meandered off into the bush before exiting to the east of Cape Providence. We regained our kayak and headed home. Later the Southport party arrived after having trekked into Lake Hector and then gone on to Cape Providence.
Sand flies are always a problem in Fiordland but I had bought 2 large screen tents and flies for the trip as well as headnets and these were invaluable. I had also brought a portable shower _ a sort of watering can made of plastic which I tried out in the evening. I filled it up with fresh water and walked into the bush till I found a branch at the correct height to which I tied it. Then it was a strip off and rapid shower as the sandflies zoomed in on all that exposed flesh. Afterwards it felt good!!
Another fine day saw us kayaking up towards Edwardson Sound, the most beautiful sound in the area. At Little Island was the wreck of the Stella, an old lighthouse tender. Belinda, Daan, Giselle and I set off first and kayaked along slowly admiring the numerous fish close to shore. Later we popped into a secluded bay and had a brew up on a fire to be joined by Mick and Sier. The others pushed on up Edwardson Sound. The day was beautifully clear and the high peaks on either side looked great. The wind came away in the afternoon blowing up the sound and we were able to surf waves all the way up. At the top we met the others who were heading over to the beach north east of Mt Inaccessible to camp. Simon, Mick, Giselle, Belinda and I carried on up to the Cora Lynn Falls where we anchored our kayaks and walked up the track to beautiful Lake Cadman. Here we had a ritual swim in its dark waters and planned a climb onto Saddle Hill and Square Top next day. Then it was down to our kayaks and a paddle up the Lumaluma River at high tide. We were able to go as far as the waterfall in a narrow gorge. Then it was back to camp. That evening in the screen tent we discussed plans for the following days and it was decided a party would climb the mountain range to the south west of Lake Cadman and the rest of the party would explore the lake on a dingy left at the outlet of the lake.
We left early next day for the paddle across the top of Edwardson to the Cora Lynn Falls. There were 9 of us and here we tied up our kayaks and set off up the track to its highest point and then plunged into the bush and tracked south. This involved a lot of sidling around hills dropping to the lake eventually to arrive at a beach at the southern extremity. Then it was straight up moderately step bush slopes into a cloud inversion. Higher up we entered quite scrubby steep forest and a band of cliffs. Here we sidled right and made our way up a gully where we managed to fill our water bottles in a soak. By now we were well above the inversion and the sky was a radiant blue with not a cloud in sight and warm. We eventually had to battle a band of subalpine scrub to arrive out onto a tussocky ridge at just under a 1000 metres altitude. This was Saddle Hill and here we stopped for lunch. Roger had his coffee percolator and proceeded to make some coffee for us. The ridge continued on in a most delightful manner open and easy travel across lovely tops. To the south was a valley with open parkland dotted with trees. We climbed Square Top and here Simon, Mick, Roger and Robin continued on to a rocky peak further along. I sat for awhile with Sier admiring the view and was buzzed by a passing helicopter, no doubt surprised to see anyone on such an isolated mountain. Down on lake Cadman we spied the dingy making it way up the lake. As time was moving on Sier and I made our way back to Shoulder Hill to collect the rest of the team. Here I contacted the dingy party by VHF and asked them to pick us up at the southern end of the lake and save us an hours plod around it to the track. Then it was a rapid descent down through the forest by compass to the beach, which took nearly 3 hours. Waiting was the Œwaka¹ and soon we were transported back to the outlet and then it was a short trip back to our kayaks and camp across the sound. The rest arrived later that night somewhat knackered.
The plan next day was to move down Edwardson to Cunaris Sound and Cliff Cove and portage over to Long Sound. The morning was cloudy with the usual inversion but with promises of a sunny day. The sand flies hurried our departure but as usual with 15 people not all were ready to leave at the state time. I called several together on the water and said we would start and then asked Roger on shore to bring up the rear and with that we were off. The mist was right down to water level as we paddled along. Eventually we reached Divide Head and here Noel asked about going on to Small Craft Harbour Islands. Noel, Louise, Mark, Belinda and I then set off on a compass bearing for them. 15 minutes later they appeared out of the mist. Slowly this lifted and the sun broke through. We drifted along slowly and the water was so clear we could see rock cod and blue cod swimming beneath and paua on rock ledges. We put into one bay and landed and here I lit a fire for a brew. We dried off our damp clothes and I went for a swim. The islands are magical with lovely bush and only a few sand flies.
In the afternoon we decided to move on and shortly after leaving a pod of dolphins came cruising past moving up Edwardson about a kilometre away. The wind had come up as we moved around the islands and Belinda and I decided to push on to Cliff Cove to check on the portage route. We eventually arrived at a fast moving stream draining some tidal lagoons and lined and paddled our kayaks up this to meet the rest of our party on a beach at its head. Sier and Mick reported an easy route over to Long Sound. There was some talk about going to Lake Victor up the Carrick River so several of us set off for this but then it seemed like there was not enough time to do this so we returned. By now it was nearly high tide so we continued up the tidal lagoons but these should only be tackled at high tide as we were reduced to getting out and pulling our kayaks through stinking mud for several hundred metres. We then left our kayaks in the bush and loaded up with rucksacks and dry bags full of gear we started across the narrow isthmus. On the far side was a good campsite. Later that evening the rest of the team arrived.
Next day it was fine again and our main task was to transport all the kayaks across to Long Sound. Mick and Sier took off early to kayak across to the Carrick River In Cunaris Sound and tramp in to Lake Victor. Sue marked the track, straightening it out and we started carrying kayaks across. To get the double kayak across we used slings under it with three people on either side and with Katherine taking up the stern. By lunchtime all was across. Some of the team decided to kayak up to the head of Long Sound but I was content to mooch around locally.
The following day a group of us left for the head of Long Sound, which was about 11 kilometres away. The day was fine yet again and in several hours we head reached it. An impressive waterfall fell into a narrow ravine at its head. We managed to scramble out of our kayaks onto a rock ledge below steep forested slopes and leaving them tied to trees we climbed about 200¹ up onto a terrace. Here deer trails brought us up to Lake Widgeon 500 metres further on. Forested mountains with clear tops that looked a delightful hemmed in the lake. Mick had been here before on an epic solo traverse of southern Fiordland. He pointed to some sandy beaches on the far side and said how boggy the land was there! Sier was keen to scramble down to the waterfall so I accompanied him back to the lip of it. In fact there were a series of waterfalls coursing down smooth granite slabs before the final 100¹ leap into the Fjord. We made our way back to the kayaks and started back. By now the wind had come up and it was a slog into a headwind all the way. Nearer our camp it got really difficult especially on the headlands and it was a relief to reach it. During our absence Simon had climbed Treble Mountain and reported fantastic views.
The following day we packed up camp to move down Long Sound to Coal Island. It was an overcast day and we set off in several groups. Little was to be seen of the tops. We kayaked around the north side of Weka Island meeting the ŒJewel¹ en route. We knew there was an old Maori cave on Round Island so we stopped there and found it. The floor was dry with lots of old punga trunks lying in one side and a mound of shells on the other. It was not all that appealing a place to camp so we move on. Then it was on to Moonlight beach to establish our camp. This proved to be an ideal site with plenty of sites for our tents and not too many sand flies. The only drawback was lack of fresh water.
We spent the next 3 days exploring Coal Island and marking the tagged tracks. I had arranged with DOC before we arrived to disk tracks on the island in preparation for pest eradication. DOC in conjunction with the South West Endangered Species Trust is working to set up Coal Island as an endangered species sanctuary. There was a track right round the island and one through the centre and we marked about three quarters of them. This involved nailing orange discs about 6 feet up on trees within line of sight and light track clearing. Everyone helped and it was a great team effort.
On our last Friday several of our members went on a walk to the Golden Site mine where there was an old stamper in the Wilson Valley. It is a three-hour walk from Preservation Lodge at Bisbee. The same day Belinda, Noel and I had kayaked to Spit Island landing on the eastern beach as a sea was running on the western side. We beached our kayaks and went for a walk /climb up to the top of the island. This was the site of a Maori pa that was sacked in the late 18th century. There was little to see of its previous use apart from some deep pits on the flat summit among the trees and ferns. We faced a stiff breeze on leaving the beach that grew in intensity so much so that we had to really push hard to get to Coal Island. Once there we landed but Noel decided to head across to the Pressypus, a fishing barge anchored at Weka Island. There was a strong SE wind blowing so it was a tough paddle back with the wind on the beam. In the afternoon I decided to return to Coal Island by myself to tidy up our previous campsite and no sooner had I left the safety of the bay on Weka Island than I began to regret my decision. The sea was laced with whitecaps and it was a low brace all the way across as I fair flew across the sea. It was a relief to land. I dismantled Richards supplejack kayak and tossed it into the bush before launching. It was immediately apparent I was not going to get back by the same route so I kayaked up the west side of Steep-to and tried to cross to Round Island. This was impossible as the wind blew me back so I returned to the south side of Steep-to and made my was across a narrow neck of forest to the cave there. Inside it was perfectly dry and Simons and Giselle¹s sleeping bags lay on the floor. I checked the sea conditions from time to time but there was no let up in the gale. I climbed up the hill above the cave and was able to make contact with Noel on my VHF radio much to their amusement no doubt. The day wore on and I wondered why Simon and Giselle had not returned. I figured they were with the others camping at Kisbee because it was too rough to cross the sea. Eventually it was dark, very dark so I settled down in Simon¹s sleeping bag. Sometime during the night a crocodile came for me. It closed it jaws on me when I was sleeping peacefully and my screams echoed around the cave. It even woke me up! It was a relief to see the dawn but I was apprehensive for some other reason I could not fathom. I woke early and started packing up all the gear so I could ferry it back to the barge. Then I saw a launch approaching and this surprised me. I carried out a load of gear and met Katherine who informed me Giselle had disappeared the previous evening and I was needed at Preservation Lodge. With that I hurriedly packed all the gear and threw my kayak on board and set off for Kisbee.
When I arrived at Preservation Lodge I was briefed by Don, the caretaker, on Giselle¹s disappearance. She had been up at the stamper in the Wilson River with one of our team members the previous evening and had vanished. Despite an all night search by Simon, Robin and Mick no trace could be found of her. The river had been high and it was thought she was on the true right bank of the Wilson. I was keen to organise a search party and start immediately for the site but Don was insistent SAR did not want this as any sign of her might be lost by people tramping through the bush. So we kicked our heels all morning as more helicopters arrived with SAR people. It was clear SAR did not want us on the search but I managed to persuade them to let a small party of experienced mountaineers from our team join in the search. In the afternoon 6 of us walked up the track blowing whistles and listening for any reply. We did this almost to the lip of the Wilson River and then returned by chopper to Kisbee. As the place was crowded with people we all left for the Pressypus. That night I called a meeting and explained I wanted everyone to leave next morning with our pickup with the Jewel and Mick, Simon and I would remain with the SAR team.
Next day dawned clear and looked like an ideal day to search the Wilson. The chopper arrived and took us Simon, Mick and myself off to Kisbee as the Jewel approached. There Ian Martin the search controlled assigned us to a police team and we were airlifted into the Wilson. A team from DOC with chainsaws cleared a patch of bush deep in the ravine as we hovered overhead and then we were down and jumping clear. Our party of 4 then set up a line search across the hillside and did a sweep down the Wilson for about a kilometre. It was clear to me after this Giselle would not have travelled down the Wilson, as the bush was too thick and steep. We then decided to comb the riverbed down stream for another kilometre. In the afternoon several of the search teams joined together to do a sweep up the hillside up stream of the stamper. This was steep forest terrain and it was during this exercise the news came through she had been found on a beach way to the east of Gates Harbour.
With this we moved down to the landing site in the valley bottom to be choppered out to Kisbee. The relief was inexpressible and the grin on Simons face a delight. Back at Preservation Lodge Giselle looked tired and was limping badly. In the evening we flew out by chopper to Clifton flying over numerous passes in the mountains of southern Fiordland. From Clifton we got a lift to Riverton by car where we picked up Simons car to Invercargill.
Members of the expedition were
Robin Mitchell
Katherine Dixon
Susan Cade
Richard Henderson
Mick Abbott
Louis Parker
Matt Banham
Daan de la Rey
Noel Carson
Roger Deacon
Simon Marwick
Sier Vermunt
Giselle Clements
Stan and Belinda Mulvany
Memorable quotes:
Noel: Im going to the barge
Richard: Tra La La
Roger: Stop that right now or I will throw you into the sea and drown you!
Richard: That's not an option
Mick after the marine forecast predicted 50 knot winds Were all going to die to the tune of the Monty Python song
Daan when describing how he felt at Giselle's disappearance I could not do much. I was not able to do much but I worried.
Thanks guys for a great trip. You were wonderful. It was the ultimate in team building. Thanks for the work on Coal Island. It will make a difference in the grand scheme of things. Thanks to Belinda for all the help with the organization. Special thanks to Susan. I appreciated your counsel. As for the search and rescue it was a difficult time emotionally for all of us and we were blessed things did turn out well in the end. As Jesus said let us rejoice in the lamb that went astray and was found.
Acknowledgments: To Ian Bain and the crew of the Jewel. Without their help there was not way of getting to Preservation. To Mark of the Takapu, thanks for the lift and advise. To the Staff of Preservation Lodge thanks for opening your doors to a motley crew of sea kayakers and helping with the search. To the helicopter pilots thanks for all that skilful flying and seemingly precarious landings in tiny forest clearings. To all the SAR team we appreciated your efforts, thanks guys. And lastly to members of the Preservation Sound Kayaking Expedition thanks for your faith in the enterprise and for its success.
Stanley Mulvany
Invercargill